Category Archives: Visits from the Karagöz puppets

On navigating through mushrooming Istanbul and a lecture to Hacivad’s students


We are surrounded by the particularly Istanbul-style sprawl around the highway – gecekondu (shantytowns) turned formal.  Every time we drive from the island house on Bozcaada back to the city, the city is bigger, there is just more of it.  … Continue reading

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Karagöz and Hacivad Navigate Our Road to Gelibolu


Dust is all around us.  It is coming through the AC vent into the car.  I think about one of the women I am named for, the author of The Flame Trees of Thika, and her description of getting coated in … Continue reading

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Cross-cultural marriage on the road: Karagöz shadow puppets as backseat drivers


There is a common saying in Turkey “Yavaş, yavaş,” pronounced “yavash, yavash,” which, when translated directly, comes out as “slowly by slowly.” At first, I thought that this phrase was appropriate for use during a careening ride with my husband … Continue reading

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