The Karagöz puppets visit the Registry of Motor Vehicles – Kenne faints from shock


registry of motor vehicles boston chinatown red tape

The puppets felt at home with all of the red tape – Turkey is well-known for its bureaucracy and red tape – but they did not some surprise to see the American flag up – Zenne said, nervously, “that’s a bit more Turkish than American in a government palace.”

You know those pop culture images of the absent-minded and pre-occupied professor that you come across once in a while? Well, that’s me. Some, including my beloved M., might just say with a diplomatic air that I am not “the best at details of life.”

And this, dear readers is what led me to stand for almost 2 hours in our local Registry of Motor Vehicles in order to pay a late fine for a ticket I paid late. But no, this is not going to be a raging against the red tape machine kind of post – it is just a post acknowledging that I must be better at minding the details so I don’t subject the Karagöz puppets to the shock and awe campaign that was our experience today.

After obtaining various forms, permissions and stamps from floors 1, then 4, then 1 and finally 2 (the puppets swaying along on my shoulders, purse and hair the whole time, unphased), I set in to wait.  Checking my trusty-dusty iphone, thanks to some pirated Internet as the dratted thing has stopped locating telephone signals altogether, I noted that the Registry of Motor Vehicle’s website indicated an average wait of 1 hour and 7 minutes.  Realizing that I was in for the long haul, with no place to sit, I ambled up to a wall-leaning spot and commenced to chat with whomever seemed most willing to chat back.

Kenne, the Queen of Manners and Maintenance of Ladylike Behavior, while approving of gentle small talk, was simultaneously unsure about whether it was OK to speak with some relatively *confused* and *unseemly* people.  She’s a bit snobby, you know, in case you haven’t noticed.  Esma, the hippie puppet, decided that she had had just about enough of Kenne’s racism and classism – and kicked her out of the open window where she landed on a geranium plant perched on the ledge.  This was, mind you, a relatively rare expression of violence from the otherwise pacifist-oriented little vegan puppet.

Striking an unusually friendly allegiance with Karagöz himself, the base, crass and generally just plain rude puppet, Esma and Karagöz proceeded to feed me lines for all of the interesting conversations I began to have as I ended up helping people fill out forms, gave a distraught woman a kleenex, engaged in collective bitching and moaning with the other middle-aged ladies standing about on sore feet for too long, and the like. The puppet troupe, meanwhile, was so used to waiting around in lines, that they pulled out their books, newspapers, lace-making and the like, and got down to business.  Karagöz raised the question of a bribe for getting to the front of the line – and the entire troupe reminded him we were in the U.S. where this was not so common out in the open as compared to Turkey.  He settled down to observe the crowd, cackling madly at the gangy-gang boys with their low-slung pants and high-minded attitudes.

Yehuda Rebbe and Hacivad Bey nodded approvingly, in a somewhat pedantic and well-meaning white dude kind of way, saying things like “it’s good that you are communing with the masses, m’lady, you need to feed your mind outside of that Ivory Tower you usually reside in.”

Snorting his discontent, Karagöz guffawed “that building you work in – the one with all of the mold? That is HARDLY an ivory tower – oh look – another interesting person is approaching you!”

“Hey there,” a fellow waiting woman said, “you have the number before me – how long you been waiting?”  Sensing a lady who really liked to chat – I extended the small talk and eventually also helped her to fill out her forms.  We commiserated about the challenges of changing one’s name post-divorce and our resolve never to take another partner’s name (in my case, that will be null and void on the Turkish citizenship front – no choice!).  We tried out different leaning positions with attention to the variance on how sore our feet were.

And after about fifteen minutes of this back and forth (punctuated by the puppets’ confusion about how to interpret her southern U.S. accent, most of which I ignored), things got interesting.  Not only was Kenne limping across the floor from where she had climbed UP the geranium and over the window sill where she could jump back inside – fuming all the way.  Kenne shot me a warning look as she trudged back towards me, ignoring Esma the whole way, “don’t be to sure too much chatting is a good thing – and I have heard a few too many curses from you today, m’lady, in this plebeian conversation of yours.  Who do you think you are, a longshoreman?”

Just as I was processing Kenne’s concern, and whether I was going to give a damn – I noticed that the white ladies in the room (that is to say, the other middle aged white ladies like me) were moving away from me – and the woman I was talking too.  Tuning back in to my new friend, I realized she had started to pontificate – some might just say rant – about the “organ donor” poster on the wall.

“I’m tellin’ you, honey,” she said not even in a sotto voce tone, “I wish I could do that organ givin’ thing – you know people needs it – but I’ll be mother-f*d if what I see happening to other people happens to me – I needs mine!”

Intrigued and remembering the infamous Tuskegee Syphilis Experiment, I pressed her for more, saying “what do you see happening to other people?”

“They have they organ donor box checked on they ID card – and they not too sick – but then they go into the hospital for some little some such and BAM – they dead! I think them hospitals goin’ after them organs!  I knew a lady done sold her ankle bone for $10,000 – you know them organs go for lotsa money!”

“I’ve heard about that, yes.  I think there is a big market for organs – like black market -”

“Girl, I ain’t talkin’ about no black market – I am talking about Boston Medical Center! You know all they Black ladies – they went in to get them some hysterectomies – and they gave those lady bits-” she paused, as if to catch herself

“to White ladies?” I ventured – sensing she didn’t want to say it to me given our skin color difference and the fact that we didn’t know one another from Eve.

“yes, them White ladies got the Black lady bits when they couldn’t have no kids!”

Before I could think, I just said “that’s f*d up!” to which she guffawed, slapped me on the back and said “that’s right, girl, it’s f*d up aight,” further shocking the shrinking White lady gaggle around me.

It was only at this point, that I noticed the kicking of my shins, and looking down, of course, I saw that it was Kenne kicking away in furious anger at my crass and rude behavior – with some semi-half-hearted kicking going on by her handmaiden, Zenne…:you-must-stop-immediately!  Your grandmother and granny would ROLL in their graves!”

Before I could send a mental telegram to my manners puppet, my new real-world friend and waiting companion, Kenne was in for the biggest shock of all.  The animated southern lady downed her Dunkin’ Donuts coffee and announced – “You know why I got this small coffee, right? It helps you do the poo – and I gotta go – y’all know where the bathroom is?”

Giggling inside, I pointed the way to the bathroom just as Kenne fainted from shock at the notion that a lady (or not much of a lady but still) would announce her bowel movement in public.  Karagöz just pointed out that she’d do a lot better with a Turkish coffee.

I’m not sure how it all turned out, as they called my number about then, and I was off to resolve my fee and move on with life.

Just another day of observing life with my puppets.

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I was brave enough to document the cup my friend was holding before she made the scandalous comment (in the words of Kenne, still not recovered by the crassness of the American plebes).

Posted in A Karagöz puppet battle, Academic hell, Turkish-American Matters, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Celebi shares Orhan Veli Kanik’s “I am listening to Istanbul”


Celebi the modernist, and some would say dandy, is much more than his chartreuse green silk shantung suit makes him out to be – and today it is evidenced by his memorized lament for the city he misses so…

Not to be outdone by Tiryaki the narcoleptic opium addict, Celebi was the first to wake me this morning with his favorite poem as of late.  Celebi, that modern lover, has turned to Orhan Veli Kanik‘s words to express the love for the city he misses – but love/hates at the same time.  Saf and Dobra stir at this prospect.  You may recall that they love-hate modern day Turkey with all of the inherent conflicts and confusions therein – and are always wrestling about this topic.  But for now, let us enjoy this ode to Celebi’s most missed metropolis…

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed:
At first there is a gentle breeze
And the leaves on the trees
Softly sway;
Out there, far away,
The bells of water-carriers unceasingly ring;
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
Then suddenly birds fly by,
Flocks of birds, high up, with a hue and cry,
While the nets are drawn in the fishing grounds
And a woman’s feet begin to dabble in the water.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
The Grand Bazaar’s serene and cool,
An uproar at the hub of the Market,
Mosque yards are full of pigeons.
While hammers bang and clang at the docks
Spirng winds bear the smell of sweat;
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

Başkurt Sokak 71, Cihangir, Istanbul

Başkurt Sokak 71, Cihangir, Istanbul (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
Still giddy from the revelries of the past,
A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep.
Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
A pretty girl walks by on the sidewalk:
Four-letter words, whistles and songs, rude remarks;
Something falls out of her hand –
It is a rose, I guess.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
A bird flutters round your skirt;
On your brow, is there sweet? Or not ? I know.
Are your lips wet? Or not? I know.
A silver moon rises beyond the pine trees:
I can sense it all in your heart’s throbbing.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

istanbul sunset

Istanbul sunset (Photo credit: heydrienne)

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı
Önce hafiften bir rüzgar esiyor;
Yavaş yavaş sallanıyor
Yapraklar, ağaçlarda;
Uzaklarda, çok uzaklarda,
Sucuların hiç durmayan çıngırakları
İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı.

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı;
Kuşlar geçiyor, derken;
Yükseklerden, sürü sürü, çığlık çığlık.
Ağlar çekiliyor dalyanlarda;
Bir kadının suya değiyor ayakları;
İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı.

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı;
Serin serin Kapalıçarşı
Cıvıl cıvıl Mahmutpaşa
Güvercin dolu avlular
Çekiç sesleri geliyor doklardan
Güzelim bahar rüzgarında ter kokuları;
İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı.

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı;
Başımda eski alemlerin sarhoşluğu
Loş kayıkhanelerıyle bir yalı;
Dinmiş lodosların uğultusu içinde
İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı.

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı;
Bir yosma geciyor kaldırımdan;
Küfürler, şarkılar, türküler, laf atmalar.
Bir şey düşüyor elinden yere;
Bir gül olmalı;
İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı.

İstanbul’u dinliyorum, gözlerim kapalı;
Bir kuş çırpınıyor eteklerinde;
Alnın sıcak mı, değil mi, biliyorum;
Dudakların ıslak mı, değil mi, biliyorum;
Beyaz bir ay doğuyor fıstıkların arkasından
Kalbinin vuruşundan anlıyorum;
İstanbul’u dinliyorum.

Posted in Introducing the Karagöz puppets, Turkish Art, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Kenne, the Queen of Manners and Maintenance of Ladylike behavior – hits the rakı!


This is Kenne, the Queen of Manners and Maintenance of Ladylike Behaviors, including etiquette, mind you
(Image is -Proper Ollie: Manners in Minutes · Sculpture by J.Seward Johnson)

It’s a rare thing to see Kenne at a loss for words, but it did happen this summer, if you can imagine it.

Kenne, as you may recall, is the puppet Queen in charge of Manners and the Maintenance of Lady-like behavior (including, tabi canım, etiquette). You can read more about who she is by clicking here.

In any case, Kenne is well-known as the member of the Karagöz puppet troupe that sounds off (some say pontificates) on all matters etiquette at just about any moment – opportune or not.

My beloved M., as usual, was the target of Kenne’s sharp tongue on the etiquette front this summer. Now it is important to note here that I am a lady trained in etiquette by both grandmothers as a child (“a lady of sorts!” Kenne sniffs, insisting that I have lost most of it). You see, I had to sit through numerous etiquette courses during the summer – in the moldy basement of the local Episcopal church my Granny was a member of – in lieu of swimming at the local bay beach…it was torture. BUT – as Kenne is happy to point out – eventually, I bought into it for a time.

And so there we were, this past summer, when Kenne’s fury hit full force. We were in the hospice with my Father, with Kenne hovering nervously around my head, as I learned that my husband, my dear M., had been asked not to spend the night in the hospice anymore. We were all taking turns staying with my Father in his last days, and M. had taken the first shift. As our private nursing assistant left for the night, she told M. “be sure that he is turned every 2 hours.”

Being the Turkish military trained soldier and deeply-caring golden-hearted man that he is, he took this instruction to heart. As he told me later, he could barely sleep, afraid he would not hear the alarm to wake him at the next 2 hour mark, to make sure that my Father was turned. At the three hour mark, with no nurses in sight, M. went to advocate – and then again at the 4 hour mark.

In good Turkish tradition, I now learn, M. took what he thought was a respectful approach to the situation – an approach others described as loud and confrontational. “Excuse me, sir,” he said to the nurse, “it is my understanding that (my Dad) is to be turned every 2 hours – but it has been 4 – could you please turn him? Isn’t it in your chart?”

In his mind, I am sure, he was being firm but respectful. But unfortunately, M. comes across as loud (Kenne adds “and often boorish”) all the time. Without getting into the poor handling of this matter by the hospice – and the subsequent good handling of the poor handling – M. did not spend any more nights but was a valiant supporter of those of us who did – bringing food, a blow up bed – and the dog, who brought comfort to many.

Over the years, I have come to realize that M. has no awareness of how loud he is – and cannot hear the tone of his own voice in the context of a given moment. When I heard that M. was not invited back, I had a sense of just what had happened. Since then, I often say “sweetie, I am sitting right next to me, you don’t need to yell.” My artfully positioned placements of Miss Manner’s Etiquette Tomes, such as the one in the picture to the left, are usually rebuffed.

“When,” M. rightly says, “will your family just accept me for who I am – don’t they see how much I love you and care for you and them as well?” The tone issue always raises the specters of bad conversations past – proving that without directly processing through it, it is sometimes hard to let bygones be bygones.

Early on in our relationship, I found this tone of voice issue to be very painful…and during the years when my family approached the idea of M. with trepidation (after my first, failed marriage to another foreigner), this issue came up on a number of occasions. My sister, for example, complained that he and my Italian brother-in-law were “too loud and competitive” while playing, of all things, a word game. Later, she said “I am sure it is the macho, Turkish culture.” I felt crestfallen that M. is seen through what I believe is a stereotyped lens. Thankfully, she has gotten to know him better since then and I hope has seen that macho is one of the LAST words that should be attached to my M.

What she is right about, I have come to realize however, is that there is an element of Turkish culture that IS involved in this – namely – the use of a loud tone of voice. In Turkey, I find that loud tones (I might even say “yelling”) are ever-present – and when you couple that with what our niece calls “the Turkish lack of a personal space bubble” – it can be oppressive. I often awake in the morning to M. talking with friends or family on Skype – in other words – I wake as the tone is so loud. Before I understood much Turkish, I thought something drastic must be happening, or a major fight – but with time – I realized that ALL conversations were loud – not even due to the potential vagaries of Skype Internet connections.

And this is where Kenne comes in. The night after I learned that M. was banned from the hospice during the night shift, I turned to Kenne for advice. “Kenne,” I ventured, “what is to be done here – am I missing something?”

SIlence. (I am thinking – “THIS NEVER HAPPENS! Where is the shrill shrew of a lady, already?”

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Surprising everyone, even her nervous nelllie like a bowl of quince jelly puppet handmaiden named Zenne, Kenne sat down, slapped off her proverbial high hat, and reached for the bottle of iced rakı that Tiryaki had on hand. Not knowing quite what to do, as usual, Zenne began to wring her hands and fan her lady – hoping that this would help to regain composure and the proper practice of ladylike behavior. It didn’t, unfortunately, do a whit of good.

Now back to that iced bottle of rakı provided by our resident addict. You may recall that Tiryaki is the resident narcoleptic, opium-addicted puppet, if not, you can read about him by clicking here. Seeing that the impossible was becoming possible – Tiryaki opened his eyes wide to observe it – the unthinkable – Kenne consuming a not very tek (small) glass of rakı – but rather going for a straight shot out of the bottle.

Taking a deep swig of the potent anisette-like alcohol, she seemed to enjoy the swish of the milky-looking liquid in her oh-so-proper mouth. After what looked like a heavenly swallow – as if the chains of years of proper-ness were bursting simultaneously – Kenne tilted her head back in repose. But it was not to last.

“Terrible!” Kenne cried out with true nail-scratching horror “Now that I have placed my lips on this bottle of rakı I must finish the whole thing!” To this knowledge, Zenne fainted. The little chorus of dancing ladies just creeped up and dragged her off, like some reverse body-surfing activity.

After several more attempts to ‘do her duty’ and finish the bottle, Kenne was finally able to address my question. “Well, m’lady,” Kenne half-hiccuped, “I really don’t know what to tell you. Even in the Sultan’s court, the louder tone of voice was de rigueur – and in the Grand Bazaar – well – obviously! I just don’t understand how to handle this – what’s right at home is not right here, and it is hard to re-wire the brain. What to do? What to do? And especially as it was in a good effort on his part – and the hospice staff should understand that the family members of people at the end of life may be upset!!”

As I look back on her drunken, slurred words, I realize that the question is this. Co-existence in a culture where American norms are presumed by many to be untouchable – well – it is a challenge. Where is the line between what people should acculturate to – and what the dominant society should accept? In my experience, being in a relationship and marriage with this Turkish man, the ideals of acceptance and cross-cultural understanding often fall by the wayside in favor of a dominant society preference. Is this fair – in some instances probably yes. In some instances probably no. It is a lot easier to talk about cross-cultural acceptance when we are abroad, I am guessing, than in moments that are located squarely in the grey area. I wish all sides could compromise a bit more in the moments such as these…let’s hope for the best. Kenne, clearly, is undone by it all.

The more she drank, the more she confused herself, rambling on and on…until finally, Tiryaki laid out his cape for her to rest in, and she fell into pickled-cucumber-like inebriated sleep. I didn’t stick around to see what she was like the next morning, but suffice it to say, there are no easy answers when it comes to cross-cultural communication.

Posted in Cross-cultural learning moments, Family Challenges, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments