Ugly Turkish-Americans? Mercan Bey finds camels in Tulum, Mexico


Tulum Pueblo Mexico mariscos El Camello

Mercan Bey the spice trader from the Arabian penninsula is knee-deep in cross-cultural learning while he snoops in the kitchen at Tulum Pueblo’s El Camello restaurant. “How is it,” Mercan Bey wonders, “that a place famous for seafood is named after camels?”

When we last left you, Karagöz was almost marinating in his cóctel de mariscos over at El Camello Restaurant in Tulum Pueblo in the Quintana Roo province of Mexico‘s Yucatan penninsula.

Since Karagöz was given permission to dictate yesterday’s post, and since he just gave the culinary highlight, let’s go back and get some context, shall we?

As you may recall, Mercan Bey, the Arabian Spice Trader Puppet, spent his first morning in Tulum sneaking about the grassy rafters of our hotel’s kitchen.  Having eventually figured out that “cilantro” is really just fresh coriander, that annatto seed makes things red and that there were way too many New Englandy dishes on the menu (take pear salad with Gorgonzola cheese, for example), he jogged back to the room and announced that we needed to do “more culinary exploration, stat!”

Tulum Pueblo Mexico mariscos El Camello

Tulum Pueblo’s El Camello – the only camel we saw…

So, at this adventurous puppets’ urging, M. and I borrowed some majorly junky and almost brake-less bikes from our hotel and headed into the selva towards Tulum Pueblo.  Described by many a snotty tourist book as a “dirty nothing town” south of Cancún, we rejoiced.  “Just our cup of Çay,” we thought, as we headed into the great unknown, “something discarded by the touring elite – we’re bound to find some deliciousness there!”  Having been told it was a half-hour ride by bike, we set off in the mid-afternoon heat.

One of our beater bikes in Tulum, Mexico - on the way home from El Camello (Image by Liz Cameron)

One of our beater bikes in Tulum, Mexico – on the way home from El Camello (Image by Liz Cameron)

Observing neon turkuaz parrots along the way, we worked on muscles heretofore unknown and one and a half hours later, ended up in front of a place we had heard of from the local workers in our hotel – El Camello.  Fearing we were lost at one point, I broke out my dusty Spanish to ask directions of a lady about my age who was peddling churros on her bicycle.  Churros, in case you do not know, are a delicious fried sweet treat.

Turning her head sideways to break through my Central American-infused accent (a long story from far, far away), she didn’t seem to mind that her blackened nubs of teeth made their appearance as she told me to look for “red, lots of red plastic, just that way a bit.”

churros and bananas in tulum

Before I could finish adequately analyzing what her teeth suggested about the Mexican dental system, and the unfairness of globalized inequality, there it was, El Camello, resplendant in scarlet plastic tables and chairs, all over the place.

There it was, El Camello, famed mariscos restaurant, and for those not in the know, mariscos is Spanish for seafood…We scoured the menu for our choice of the day as local folks transitioned from watching a Mexican futbol match to the Mexican version of “The Voice” – La Voz… México.” No Christina Aguilera to be found, but her Mexican counterparts abounded.

This image was selected as a picture of the we...

Thrilled to be in a local establishment, Mercan Bey shot off into the kitchen, where he spent the next hour learning all he could from participant observation – I say participant observation instead of just observation as there were some Mexican Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) puppets in that place (see exemplar photo here from Wikipedia), so they were kind enough to show our very own spice man around.

After tucking into his cóctel de mariscos, M. was in a mollusk-ridden coma of drool and beer, so I turned to chatting with our waitress.  At one point, I stuck my foot squarely into my ugly American mouth.  As soon as the waitress squinched her eyes up at my question, I knew I had pulled an ugly American action…but what could I do?  I had questioned the waitress about the meaning of “El Camello,” only to be reminded that it just means – yes – “the camel.” Duh!  I was too embarrassed to ask anything else, and just retreated into the “food is amazing” territory to save some face.  Famous for it’s seafood, you may well wonder how it acquired the name El Camello – but I guess they’ll never tell!

Tulum Pueblo Mexico mariscos El Camello 2

Locals listening to “La Voz…Mexico,” in Tulum Pueblo Mexico at El Camello Restaurant.

Posted in Puppets on the move around the world, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Afiyet olsun: Karagöz revels in the joy of a Tulum cóctel de mariscos


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Coctel de mariscos in Tulum Pueblo at El Camello – the puppets swoon so much that they almost fall in and get marinated by lime juice

Although we have been taken up with rhetoric-related battles over tears and corpses in Turkey as of late, the Karagöz puppets do want me to recognize that it is time to get back to the telling of the highlights of our hiatus in Tulum, Mexico.

As Karagöz was the *most* fussy about me getting back to blogging, I asked him to describe the highlight of his Tulum experience (other than swinging from palm tree to palm tree at our hotel, the Cabañas Tulum Hotel).

Screeching with glee, he just yelled out the only words of Spanish he cares to remember – namely “cóctel de mariscos” and headed to the local fishmarket to try to recreate the lusciousness of what we discovered at Tulum Pueblo’s El Camello Restaurant

El Camello Restaurant, Tulum Pueblo, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Here is a recipe from Saveur magazine that you may want to try…but I doubt it will rival El Camello’s work…afiyet olsun!

Cóctel de Mariscos (Seafood Cocktail)

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

2 lb. medium cooked shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed
½ cup shucked raw clams
1 cup tomato juice
¼ cup olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 tbsp. minced red onion
1 ½ tsp. Mexican hot sauce, such as Cholula
1 ½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo, plus 2 tbsp. adobo sauce from can
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ cup thinly sliced cilantro
½ avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced
Saltine crackers, for serving

INSTRUCTIONS

2. Divide seafood mixture among 4 chilled sundae glasses, and sprinkle with cilantro; pour cocktail mix over top. Place 3 reserved whole shrimp on the edge of each glass, and place avocado on top; serve immediately with crackers.

Copyright © 2012 SAVEUR. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited….(Karagoz is giggling, as he just cut and pasted this from the website, hope he doesn’t get caught – it was all for a good cause!)

 

Posted in Puppets on the move around the world, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Hacivad Bey ponders a reader’s pained comment: On Christians and Muslims; Tears and corpses


Today, we (me, M. and the Karagoz puppets) are nowhere near Tulum, Mexico – such are the vagaries of time-lapse blog travel.  Rather, I am home sick, with more blankets piled on top of me than there were mattresses under the Princess and the Pea in the classic children’s tale.

Why, you might ask, would I dare to divert you from the warm climes of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea over to a New England sickbed?

Well, you’ll have to thank Hacivad Bey for that, our learned Sufi elder, who awoke me this morning with the sad news that there was a person in pain out there in the world – a person who‘ left this comment on a post of mine about Recep Güven’s forward-looking commentary on Turkish-Kurdish relations which mentioned the need to cry for all who die – including terrorists – his was a humanitarian vision.  My comment-leaver said just this: “Do you christians weep for the muslim freedom fighters you kill?” (Please note, the lack of capitalization is verbatim, from the person making the comment).

Hacivad Bey woke me up early, of course, as he knows that my goal with this blog is to crack open the challenges of cross-cultural co-existence in whichever manner makes sense at the moment – or doesn’t make sense – as it often goes in cross-cultural encounters. And here, he told me, was an opportunity.

Now, dear reader, what you need to know is that the aftermath of these comments from Mr. Recep Güven have spurred a number of opinion essays in the English-language Turkish news (not to mention the Turkish language news!) – such as this one on “crying for the terrorists.”   The author to which the hyperlink takes you reminds us of how Islam calls for bodies to be handled…and how this relates to the inflammatory comments:

“In Islamic law, the corpse of a human being is deemed deserving of respect, regardless of who this person was when he or she was alive. Believers have a duty to respect the dead body and they must bury it properly, in no way harming or insulting it. What the police chief said was not much different from this injunction. At least, a similar logic could be applied.”

Well of course, I agree with this.  But here I am, just sitting with the peaceful Hacivad Bey who is just letting me take in the comment.  I was not surprised, nor was I angry, but rather just determined to write a good and passionate response that would hopefully foster some decent dialogue.  Hacivad Bey just said to me “it is not likely – listen to the pain in this person’s heart! It is evident in their tone.  It is likely hopeless to respond.  But some of the best movements in our world are just so.”

Esma, the hippie puppet, piped in upon hearing this “with all due respect, Hacivad Bey, I really think we must always try to forge connections, understanding and respect – don’t urge us away from it!”  Hacivad Bey sighed heavily, thinking how much the enthusiasm of youth is ever-present in Esma.

So, there we sat, me and Hacivad Bey, as the little chorus of dancing lady puppets delivered the morning çay and cold medicine.  After that, they pretty much left me alone, pooled together on the dining room table, to watch the live-streaming news on CNN Turk.  They are interested in what will happen to their homeland – and are concerned to see that some feel there is a 50%-50% chance of Turkey going to war with SyriaYou can read more about that at the blog Ottomans and Zionists, here. They also just like to count all of what they feel are both pompous and unnecessary nationalistic comments on the various news sites that refer to Turkish fighter jets as “the Turkish eagles of freedom” and the like.  Ever the agent provocateur, Karagoz suggests that these commentators like to envision eagles as they are “a bit like a primped up chicken on steroids.”

Regardless of the at-times-over-the-top nationalistic tone on the current goings-on in Turkey re: Syria or re: the “Kurdish problem,” as it is often called, this Turkish-American home is feeling the weight of the lack of clarity on what is happening – and what will happen.  Bombarded by well-meaning friends and family, many have asked whether “M.’s family are near the war,” (no war yet, we respond), have asked us to explain what is going on – or have asked M. if he will “go back and join the army.”  It has been, as Downeast Mainers say at times, “wearing” (as in something that wares you down).

But these questions are not as “wearing” to us as the ever-present reality of the ways in which the U.S. has created such misunderstanding and hatred over so many years…it isn’t a one way-street, of course, but I want to own up to our part.  So, after a day of thinking about the best way to respond to my angry comment-leaver, I just decided to do a quick response from the heart – and while it likely sounds pedantic, stupidly naive or any other adjective you care to assign it – I don’t care, it’s from my heart – and it’s my blog, after all.  I do hope that my comment-leaver writes back – and maybe some dialogue can occur.

Here is what I wrote:

Thank you for commenting on my blog.

First things first – while the tone of your comment suggests to me the great pain in your heart – yes, yes as a matter of fact, I do cry for all who die in these awful conflicts which I do not support. I see human beings first, beyond religious or ethnic or national identification. If you read my blog, you would see that this is the entire point of what I am doing – please read – please engage with me here – I welcome any comment you care to make if you are really open to true dialogue.

Second, I do not imagine it is fair that you lump me in with other Christians – and I am barely one of those having seen what the Christian churches can perpetrate in the name of the Bible. Unlike the stereotypes that many people have about Americans, I am aware- well aware of what has been perpetrated against Muslims worldwide by the U.S. and/or people who are Christian or use the Christian moniker for centuries. This does not represent the Christianity I know or was raised in. Please know that “we” are not all the same. We do not all hold the same views. We do not all support the idiotic and oppressive political maneuvering and warmongering that goes on.

I implore you to engage in productive discussion with me – let’s move beyond the pain and hatred – life is too short – the ills perpetrated by our leaders are too great – let’s re connect as humans. It may sound trite or blithe – but I mean it.

With respect,

Liz

Posted in Cross-cultural learning moments, Turkish Controversies, Turkish-American Matters, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments