The Karagöz puppets reflect on the culture shock of seclusion


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And here we are, chilling out in our hotel room, looking out at the Carribbean Sea from the Tulum playa…only I can see the band of Karagoz puppets hanging upside down, like bats, from the top of the doorway. That is how my puppets sleep, when they do. (photo by Liz Cameron)

We awoke in Tulum, Mexico, after our long trip and long stop at La Carretta in Miami, for too much delicious Cuban food.

And soon enough, there we were, in the hotel, bellies full of good Mexican breakfast, and it was quiet – save for the sound of crashing waves – make that the sound of *constantly* crashing waves – just outside of the door of our hotel room. And yet the Karagoz puppets were sound asleep, hanging upside-down like bats, as per usual, on the top of our doorway.

It’s too bad that you can’t see them in this silhouette of our feet – but of course – those puppets are (sort of) imaginary after all. (If you have no earthly idea what I am on about, read here).

And so there we were, me, my beloved M., and a whole troupe of Karagoz shadow puppets who were sleeping like bats before waking to confusion, in Tulum, Mexico. They had briefly become aware at dawn – when it looked like this out of the window (see photo below) and then had lapsed into sleep again.

Tomatillo sauce, tortilla chips, fried eggs and crema…heaven. (From Simply recipes, at this link).

M., who was looking happy and relaxed, not to exclude his ear-to-ear grin after a delicious and very spicy breakfast of chilaquiles (click here for link to recipe), turned to me and asked the following: “how do you like it here?”

Pausing to look around me, all I could hear were the puppets for a moment or two.

“It’s – so quiet!” Esma the hippie puppet remarked, sighing with contentment as she entered the lotus position for meditation before doing some hot yoga.

“The sand, it’s so soft!” cried the little chorus of dancing ladies, who were already lounging in the powdery soft remains of an ancient coral reef.

Tulum playa (photo by Liz Cameron)

“It’s – quite loud, these waves! But quite dramatically soothing” Hacivad Bey the learned Sufi elder noted quietly as he made yet another mental note about the joy of duality in everyday life.

“It’s the perfect place to read!” announced Yehuda Rebbe, the wise and learned man, already breaking out his Kindle to choose the book of the hour.

All we heard from Karagoz himself was something along the lines of “It’s perfect for swinging in the trees!” as he disappeared into the palm fronds for at least 24 hours.

“It’s quite interesting,” Mercan Bey, our resident spice trader from the Arabian peninsula reported upon returning from the Cabanas Tulum Hotel kitchen, “they use a lot of different spices here – and what is this, how do you say, ‘cilantro?’ It looks to me like fresh coriander.”

“It’s – tough to be without the internet!” declared the Write-a-matrix, cracking her workaholic whip for good measure. Hacıyatmaz just kept rocking’ and rollin’ upon hearing this comment from his nemesis – and proceeded to roll right over her, where he stayed for the whole trip, and where she almost immediately stopped protesting. It was the quietest puppet battle yet amongst my mental gang of puppet characters. I let it peter out and just listened to those waves.

Safiye Rakkase, the vainglorious dancing puppet, was ignoring it all, plugged in, instead, to the world of the iPod and Turkish pop music.

I did not hear, but saw Tiryaki, the resident addict puppet, slink off in the direction of the pot smoke on our neighbor’s terrace to see if he could score anything to smoke since he was low on the Opium stash (I heard him mutter that he “had to go through the TSA, man, can’t risk it,”). Kenne, the Queen of Manners and Ladylike Behavior (or some such, I started to forget in my Mexican mellowness) and her handmaiden, Zenne, who is a nervous Nellie, like a bowl of jelly, looked on in disgust after Tiryaki – reminding me how glad they are that I gave up the green stuff back in 1987. It didn’t even qualify as a puppet battle, I thought to myself.

After listening to all of those puppets, I just reflected on the calm that had descended since seeing the sunrise that morning, and I breathed deep and felt the calm as I turned to M. and told him – “it’s heaven here. “Thank you – you are one in a million to bring us here!”

Posted in A Karagöz puppet battle, Puppets on the move around the world, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

The Karagoz puppets find Mehtap…in Tulum, Mexico


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The puppets snuck out my dead iphone, which while unable to get a signal, could still capture the moonlight on the water in Tulum, Mexico – in Turkish, “mehtap” means “moonlight on water.” I like a language that devotes one word to this!

Although they had dreamed of a visit to Marmaris to warm their nascent puppet bones, the Karagoz shadow puppet troupe decided that Miami was ok, once they landed there.

For one thing, it was warm, and their bones felt better.

For a second thing, they headed straight for Cafe Versailles where they had a Cuban cafecito (little coffee).

And, those puppets, they were especially enamored of the gilded marble floors in the Miami International Airport – especially as that gilding were all in the shape of sea creatures (see their photos, below, after the post).

Cuban sandwich

This is what the Cuban sandwich looked like…there was a bit of scandal around Muslims and meat – but all forgot about these once they started drooling at how good it looked… (Photo credit: TheGirlsNY)

And after they splurged on a large Cuban sandwich in La Carretta, the famous restaurant in the Miami International Airport, they were thrilled to know that this was not the end of the fun – but that we were flying on to Mexico.

Hardly able to contain their excitement, they bounced on the seats all the way to Cancun. Luckily, imaginary puppet bouncing on airplane seats does not incur the wrath of the people sitting around, as, well, they are imaginary puppets that live in my head, but anyway.

Miami International Airport

After getting the once-over from the Mexican security people (we must look suspicious, two middle agers, fighting the battle of the paunch, with only carry on luggage – or else the TSA called ahead), we headed out to meet our driver, Senor Tilo, in the humid late afternoon.

As I carried on in my pidgin Spanish with our driver, the puppets stared at me in shock, eventually resulting in Yehuda Rebbe’s stammered comment that “if you can speak Spanish THIS well, why aren’t you working on your Turkish?” You may well ask, and all I can say is “slowly by slowly” – or for Yehuda Rebbe’s benefit “yavaş yavaş.

List of Maya sites

One of the many Mayan ruins in Tulum, Mexico (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Almost 2 hours later, as we entered the Tulum area, we caught a lovely imagine of a gaggle of fisherpeople, fishing in the moonlight on the shores of the Caribbean sea. It wasn’t until we were ensconsed in our minimalist, modernist hotel room (overlooking the sea and not much else), that I saw this snap, taken by the puppets.

We all crashed into the sweet of sleep before you could say goodnight – or rather “iyi akşamlar”

To be continued….and here are a few of the puppet’s gilded floor photos…

Golden mollusks and sea creatures on floor of Miami International Airport

Posted in Puppets on the move around the world, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Newsflash from Saf and Dobra: More (in English) on Diyarbakir’s Recep Güven


Districts of Diyarbakır

Districts of Diyarbakır (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Saf and Dobra managed to force their way into my office here at the University just now.  It is a tough wooden door made to withstand the knocks of the wayward student who dares to tap when it is not within the timeframe of my office hours.

“We are sorry, m’lady,” they said, breathless from running all the way from the car, where I had left them. “We just had to share the news that there is a good English translation of more about what our hero (Saf *swooooons* at the mention of the word “hero”) said about a new way forward between Turks and Kurds.  We had to share it!”

And here is what they showed me…….how could I deny these puppets, who love-hate Turkey so, not to mention the United States, when a bastion of hope is upon them with respect to the Turkish motherland that vexes them so at times? And this is especially important, as Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has rebuked these very comments, saying “We have never wept and will never weep for terrorists killed in clashes with the Turkish security forces.”  Things are not what they seem.

New Diyarbakır Police Chief Utters Hopeful Remarks

Published in English by Bianet.org – click link above for website – the text below this line is a copy of the Bianet.org website.

The newly appointed police chief in the southeastern province of Diyarbakır voiced unusual and poignant remarks about the Kurdish issue. Critics expressed hope that the sentiments he voiced will translate into action but struck a cautious note as he still remains an agent of the Turkish state.

Diyarbakır – Siirt – BIA News Center
08 October 2012, Monday

The newly appointed police chief in the southeastern province of Diyarbakır delivered some rare and striking comments with respect to the Kurdish issue. Critics expressed hope that Police Chief Recep Güven‘s remarks will help bring about some change but remained cautions nonetheless, as he is still a representative of the Turkish state.

“It is not the country but humanity that comes first. I had said that you are not a human being unless you weep for the terrorist up on the mountain either. My heart sinks for all terrorists. If a child goes up on the mountain [to take up arms] then we all have responsibility in that,” Police ChiefRecep Güvensaid in a press meeting, according to the daily Taraf.

Güven has recently been transferred from the Siirt Police Headquarters to the Diyarbakır Police Headquarters.

“I served in Diyarbakır between 1991 and 1996. It was a difficult period. I tried to render my services in Diyarbakır at a time which we [all regret.] I had established a theater in the police academy. I used to write bits and pieces of poetry. I could neither visit the theater nor write my poetry nor read Ahmet Arif in Diyarbakır,” he said.

“We were aware that every evacuated village, in fact, represented a threat to our future. We were also aware that people who went incognito would not be subject to any system. I would rather not criticize the past, but this is what lies underneath the problem we are having today,” Güven added.

Recep Güven also said he knew all too well that security measures would not help rectify the Kurdish problem, as he had served in the police intelligence for 20 years.

“We were both the victims and the prisoners of the system in that time, and we were doomed to it,” he said.

“I had said you are not a human being unless you cry for the terrorist who dies on the mountain during [a speech at Istanbul’s] Bahçeşehir University in 2005. However, you are not a state unless you can intern a monstrous terrorist who massacres children either,” Güven said.

“If a child goes up on the mountains, then we all have responsibility in this. How could I avoid self-criticism? [We are talking about] a child who could not cling onto a social life due to the use of excessive force in one of my checkpoints, or the ill-treatment of an officer of mine at a police station. If I am one of the reasons why he ran away, if there is a problem in this society, then how are we to solve it unless we lay all this bare?” he said.

“Alright, we have suffered, but we cannot continue this business through more suffering. The state exists to serve [the people.] It is not the country but humanity that comes first. The greatest problem is to reach out to the mothers and the children,” Güven added.

Forging a common language

It is significant that a police chief spoke about the forced evacuation of countless villages in southeastern Turkey, said Mehmet Emin Aktar, the head of the Diyarbakır Bar Association.

At least 1 million Kurds were forced out of their homes during the evacuations in the countryside in the 1990s.

“It is extremely important that this person said his conscience went out for everyone who lost their lives,” Aktar told bianet.

“People’s deaths should not be distinguished from each other. It is quite human to feel sorrow about [someone’s] death through a common attitude and reflex. The rhetoric of hatred has begun to accrue greater strength in conjunction with the escalation of the conflict, and people have started rejoicing in others’ deaths. It is exceedingly dangerous for society to grow apart over people’s deaths. The basis of co-existence also begins to wither away when we have no more sorrows or joys in common,” Aktar said.

Mehmet Emin Aktar also expressed his hope that Güven’s remarks may pave the way to form a common language by those who wish to co-exist.

“He says the state is also responsible for people going up to the mountains [to take up arms.] In that case, he needs to work toward eliminating those circumstances which cause people to go up to the mountains,” he added.

“I paid a visit to Güven after he took up office. He also uttered similar remarks during our conversation. He spoke about assuming a common stance against people’s deaths and of being partners in sorrow. As a legal expert, I look at the matter through the perspective of human rights and freedoms, and as a police chief, he sees matters though the lens of security. I thought we could forge a common language, however,” Aktar said.

The government’s new Kurdish policy?

Cumhur Kılıççıoğlu, the owner of Siirt Mücadele newspaper, referred to Police Chief Güven as a person “with a sentimental approach.”

“He was in office to fight against terrorism, but he was also deeply interested in children. He strove a lot to prevent children from taking it up to the mountains [to fight against the military.] I can say he did not strike an unfavorable image. In the end, however, he was a person tasked with implementing the state’s policies,” Kılıççoğlu said.

“The governor [of the southeastern province of] Siirt also uttered similar remarks last week. The governor said he was going to hire an instructor to learn Kurdish. This could be the government’s new Kurdish policy. I hope, however, these [officials] do not just pay lip service and that their words translate into action. Peace is the common demand of all our people,” he said.

“Interior Minister İdris Naim Şahin says their struggle will continue until the last terrorist falls, but a police chief will weep for the people he will kill. Şahin also needs to grow a bit more sentimental and not make his own personnel cry,” he added. (EKN)

Posted in Turkish Controversies, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , | 13 Comments