Grieving differently in Provincetown: Ottoman space invaders take the Cape tip


One of the Ottoman Space Invaders after dominating the Bay Beach with her magical umbrella (beware the tip)

When I last left you, I had just finally sat up, literally and figuratively, from some phase of grief after my Dad’s death. What got me to sit up was the idea of making a fabulous, over-the-top costume for Provincetown’s Carnival.

An accidental drop of the local newspaper, the Provincetown Banner, had revealed that this year’s Carnival theme was “Space Odyssey.” And that was it. It had to be done. The puppets screamed a phrase through my ears from one side to the other – “Ottoman space invaders.”

It turns out that all Ottoman space invaders (sans canines) have turquoise sparkle-toes!

Firing up the jets of my Internet engine, Safiye Rakkase (the vainglorious dancing girl puppet) and I scoured the web for inspiration – sending away for 12 yards of silver tissue lame fabric at $2 a yard, a Venetian-style silver mask, 6 dozen silver Mardi Gras beads and a large, three-person silver umbrella (as the forecast indicated rain was in the future of the Space invaders).

The Ottoman Space Invaders give a shout-out to Mr. Spock

As soon as M. arrived back home on the Fast Ferry from Boston for the weekend – I made my way into town in search of glitter. What better place to look for glitter than in Provincetown’s West End? In addition to glittery Pinwheels and a turquoise-toe manicure, I slipped into the famous House of La Rue for some turquoise face glitter (to go around my eyes under the mask, and all along any skin still showing in the midst of all of that lame.

In case people didn’t automatically recognize them as such, the Ottoman Space Invaders made a sign in Ottoman green, tabi canim.

Dressed in a chartreuse kaftan, coordinating turban, MAC dark lipstick and silver flip flops, I made quite a female entrance into that bastion of Gay male dress up and/or drag preparation – but I was tolerated and indeed, the gentlemen were quite gracious (even if I didn’t buy the turquoise-sequined hot pants that caught my attention (would have been fabulous under my silver lame toga – but hot, I reasoned). Soon, I had all that I needed for my costume – and felt heart-warmed when M. broke out his artistic talent to craft a rocket pack for himself – and for our dog.

Ottoman space invader ladies do not wear veils in the 20th and 21st century sense – rather – they have pinwheels in place of their veils!

With “Space Odyssey” as the theme for this year’s Carnival celebration of life – the hardware store overstocked on silver-colored tape, mylar wrapping paper and all manner of plumbing and exhaust piping that could be made into rockets and the like. Preparations went on for days around town – and numerous space-related dioramas appeared on porches and low-slung rooftops overnight.

On the morning of Carnival, carousers could be heard all around town at all hours – but only a little in our quiet neck of the woods. For us, though, it was Safiye Rakkase who was shaking her booty (along with the dog) to space-themed disco since 3 a.m. We reasoned that it was going to be a long day…and by 7 a.m. when we walked the dog – we saw that that Commercial Street was already abuzz..with aliens of all kinds. Green-wigged and antenna-wearing aliens, aliens in underpants only (is that really a costume?), rubber cone-head masks and a few folks as way into it as I was.

The Ottoman Space Invaders met another interesting species – Space Bears!

When the time came, I departed the house fashionably late – having added a last minute brainchild of a pinwheel where my veil would have been – and descended the stairs in slow glory to the applause of my neighbors. In the end, I received not one but two of the highest honors a mere plebeian such as I could receive – numerous beads thrown at me by drag queens dressed to the nines – and many requests for pictures with the tourists.

It all brought a smile to my face, and while it likely would have somewhat horrified my Father, I think he would have understood the fun of it as well. After all, he was known to dress for Halloween each year, Esma the hippie puppet reminds me.

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Posted in Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

The puppets get worried, up Turkish tea infusions


During the nights, the little cenghi puppets (a.k.a. the little dancing ladies in English) plied me with herbal Ada Çayı so I could sleep…but there was an extra empty glass there, and I think it was my Father’s glass. I miss him.

After our return from Turkey (you can read about how the puppets handled that right here, over there and just down there as well) and my Father’s passing, there was a month of fog and gloom – and just general stuck-ness.

Even Karagöz moped a bit, but just a bit.

And then, when the family could gather, there was a wonderful memorial service, and somehow I felt I could move on again. And move I did, with the dog, right on down to our nest-shack in Provincetown. I just got the heck on out as fast as I could – leaving M. behind to work between long weekends with us.

But, I found I had moved on to not much – my mind wasn’t capable of much.  It just felt like being a recluse, living in seclusion and shutting down.  It wasn’t, Perihan Hanım (my fairy godmother puppet) reminds me, “feeling like” doing that, it was just all I could do.  And

For the first three weeks, I spent my days alternately staring at the white-raftered ceiling (which turns from sunny white to neon blue at dusk) and the ever-changing blue-grey-green bay out of my window.

Books left for my summer reading lay limp in the humidity, untouched by human hands that could (but didn’t) bring them into mind-life.

The laptop remained encased in a click-closure.

The freshly made bed was untouched – in favor of the couch and the breeze by that night-light window.

Food carefully picked for a healthy retreat remained in the fridge, passed by for cranberry juice and crackers with many glasses of rabbit’s blood Turkish Rize Çayı from the by-now very worried little chorus of dancing ladies during the day – and herbal Ada Çayı during the nights.

“We think,” the ladies said in quiet, demure unison, “that perhaps you would have felt better sooner if you had followed the Turkish burial tradition – the one about three days?” Sighing and wringing their hands, the little cenghi then felt badly, saying “we apologize, we know this is not very culturally sensitive of us, we know you have a different tradition, but we overheard this in M.’s subconscious mind.”

“I agree, little ladies,” I demurred, while blowing on the tea glass between my fingertips, “you may be onto something there, but I am glad we waited for the family to be around in order to go through it all together.”  Feeling a slight bit of closure, I stood upright if for not other reason than to just move – to change things up a bit. And as I did, a copy of the Provincetown Banner newspaper M. had picked up the previous weekend fell to the floor.

And as if the universe had offered me an invitation, there it was, an announcement about Provincetown’s Carnival 2012 – with “Space Odyssey” as the theme. And, instantly, I knew what I had to do. I knew it in phrase form before the vision appeared in my mind screen – the phrase just tumbled out of my mouth to the dog’s curious ears – “Ottoman Space Invaders.” Safiye Rakkase, the vainglorious dancing girl puppet, jumped up onto the coffee table with a banshee scream of joy – “FINALLY – she said – COSTUMES TO MAKE!”

As if a puppet myself, controlled by Safiye Rakkase’s glimmering puppet strings, I sat up on the couch, googled “silver lamé fabric” and immediately ordered 12 yards before heading out to take a walk in the night sky.

To be continued…

Posted in Family Challenges, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Pointing the way to Mecca: Karagöz questions how to share space on Turkish Airlines


Yes, there’s an app for that too – an arrow to Mecca, or more specifically to the qibla (Image thanks to MacWorld article at this link)

Before it registered that I was waking up in the airplane, mid-flight from Istanbul to New York, I could hear Karagöz swinging back and forth.  It was even more than an instant before I remembered that I was returning home to be with my family, as my father was at the end of his life, and entering hospice.

His wooden joints were creaking a bit, clearly in need of a bit of oil.  Opening one eye ever-so-slightly, I observed Karagöz to have lodged himself, upside-down, in the overhead compartment.  A perfect plan, I realized, for a puppet who categorically needs to swing back and forth in order for all to be right with the world.

Cooing at me with the craziest of tones, as he had realized I was awake, Karagöz thrust one of his usual, un-diplomatically timed and phrased questions my way.  As usual, I knew it was likely to be a hum-dinger, as my Grandpa used to say.

“I have had just about enough of being culturally aware – and more than enough of listening to debates about what to do with dead bodies in Turkey and the United States.  What I want to ask you now, M’lady, is another question altogether.  Why is it, M’lady,” he ventured with his signature ironic sneer, “that we must ALL see the way to Mecca here on this iron box you call ‘airplane?’  And why, M’lady, is it that the companies that own this mechanical beast are so caught up on being culturally sensitive – oh wait – now it’s culturally competent – oh wait again – now it’s culturally responsive? What is all of this drivel anyway?  What about the theory of shared space – you call it the theory of the commons, yes?”

“Well, Karagöz,” I began hesitantly, slowly opening my other sleepy eye, “first of all, the theory of the commons is about common resources – and people have, for example, written about the tragedy of the commons, when common resources are squandered or spoiled -”

“That’s exactly it, M’lady,” he screeched, waking the other puppets stowed away like hanging bats near him in the process, “what is more precious than our common space – and the neutrality therein?  And isn’t it a shame that each claims it for their own, thus spoiling it? A travesty of sig-nif-ic-ant proportions, M’lady, this arrow to Mecca problem.”

Sighing internally yet again, at the start of another L-O-N-G discussion, I sat upright to engage in the process.  The other puppets were waking up around me. “Well, I suppose that, dear Karagöz, is the crux of the matter, now isn’t it. Namely, should shared space be neutral – culture-non-specific – so that we may all be comfortable there.  Of course, the challenge is, that the bottom line for one culture may be non-neutral to that of another culture.  So, it seems that what is culture-neutral to you – is oppressive or, I suppose, problematic to practicing Muslims.”  Feeling quite proud of my sleepy soliloquy, I turned my head to the side and raised my eyebrows, bracing for a response.

“Hogwash!” Karagöz cried out, no religion should be the baseline – back in the day, all we Ottoman Empire subjects, well, we got along JUST FINE.” Celebi, the modernist puppet, lined up next to Karagöz, saluting his words in a muster of silent support.  His bride-to-be, Khadijah, stood nodding her head in agreement, just behind Celebi’s shoulder.

Not one to miss out on the action (a.k.a. a chance to pontificate), Kenne, the Queen Puppet of Manners (and ladylike behavior, which, in this case, started to go by the wayside a bit in favor of a good debate) stepped up to the top of the seat in front of me, pressing the “off screen” button on the way in order that all pay complete attention to her – and not the Sufi sleeping music I had located before my all-too-short snooze.

“Now hear this, puppets and M’lady,” she bellowed in as ladylike a manner as possible, “THIS is a moment for cross-cultural etiquette consultation if at all possible.  We must, you see, respect our fellow puppets and humans who wish to pray – and wish to pray PROPERLY as fits their religious practice.  Really, what is to us to see an arrow pointing to Mecca on the screen of this airplane – if we want to?  It has it’s own channel – and we may look at that channel or not.  This, therefore, for anyone with HALF a brain and a care for others, is the best possible option in the form of cultural sensitivity, a VERY IMPORTANT aspect of modern day etiquette – and – not surprisingly – the topic of my forthcoming book.”  Harumph-ing across the seat and jumping down onto my armrest in order to capture more of her classroom’s attention, Kenne continued “and you, Karagöz, might do well to a) consider the potential for revisionist notions of Ottoman history in the acceptance and difference department and b) remember that you too are a Muslim!”

Esma, the hippie puppet stood up at this moment, with Yehuda Rebbe and Hacivad Bey close by her side.  “While what Kenne Hanim says is a bit shrill and self-serving, if you don’t mind the lovingly-intended critique, it is also true – and we may think of this Turkish Airlines company as being quite culturally sensitive – or as the new rage in the American political correctness sphere dictates – culturally ‘competent’ and ‘responsive.’  Yes, this is indeed the way to harmony and understanding, not to mention peace abounding, if I might quote from the musical Aquarius.”  At this point, all of the puppets began to argue loudly.  It’s a good thing humans (well, most humans, can’t hear these puppets or we might have been arrested by the on-board TSA-goons).

“Will you listen to yourselves, fellow puppets?!” Karagöz blurted out in frustration – like a bunch of mewling kittens you are, so eager to kow-tow to the religious zealots amongst us. Beyond the importance of the neutral commons – listen to this drivel – I mean really, what IS the difference between cultural sensitivity, cultural competence and cultural responsiveness?”

“A good question, you thinking puppet you,” I said with confidence – hoping to improve the tone of the raging debate around me, “I can tell you how I experience these terms in my line of work – although I am not sure I can solve the pointing-to-Mecca debate for all of us.  It doesn’t bother me personally, but I can see it bothers you and Celebi…but back to your question…as I understand it, these terms came about sequentially.”

“Yes,” Yehuda Rebbe cried, “this is true – I have made quick study of this matter on the Internet – puppets have free WiFi wherever we go, you see, and I have learned a great deal.  It all started, you see, with migration patterns and inter-cultural existence – and the need to move away from assimilation-only stances (in the U.S. context) to a stance in which people at least KNEW or were OPEN to knowing about cultural differences or specific cultural practices. This was an attempt to show goodwill.  According to this model, I suppose those that are culturally sensitive would show that they know how important it is to observant Muslims to know the location of Mecca, or the Qibla – and what that is.”

“Yes, Hacivad Bey cried, “I heard about that old approach in an encounter group retreat I went to last year – but it has been supplanted as of late with a different approach that is called cultural competence, as Karagöz has mentioned.  It is my understanding that BEFORE interacting with someone of a different culture, one should study up as much as possible in order to understand what may be hot-button issues ahead of time – and show that one is ready to avoid those hot buttons in favor of safe passage.  So, I would argue, this model would basically be the same with respect to the Qibla, but people would be more ‘out there’ about pointing out their knowledge and facilitating people’s prayers before they pray.”

Rolling his eyes, Karagöz turned to Esma the hippie puppet, who had risen to speak as Hacivad Bey was finishing up.  “And you,” he snorted, “what PC drivel have you got to share with us now?”  Turning the other cheek, the righteous and confident Esma puffed herself up and pronounced her verdict on the arrow to Mecca mess, stating “Well, she said, I favor the ‘cultural responsivity’ approach in general.  This one means that you show people from a different culture that you encounter that you can be responsive to learning from them – without solely putting the burden of teaching on them AND simultaneously not pedantically ‘studying up’ ahead of time in a way that would make people uncomfortable.  It seems to me that the owners of this airplane are being culturally competent – and that is their choice.  There is no right answer here, no right approach.  Just the challenge of co-existence.  How to resolve the potential for a neutral commons, well, dear friend puppets, that is an unanswerable riddle that we shall all likely debate in myriad ways for years to come.”

Nodding their heads in agreement, all the puppets, even oppositional Karagöz, began to settle down, it was, after all, time for kahvaltı, and nothing gets between a puppet and their morning Çay.  Just as we all began sipping the aforementioned Çay, I looked ahead to the front row, and noted a tiny lady, conducting her prayers in between the seats and the screen, approximating as best she could supplication towards the Qibla given our cramped quarters.

Posted in A Karagöz puppet battle, Cross-cultural learning moments, Turkish Controversies, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments