The puppets dream of Marmaris – but land in Miami, and beyond!


Beaches of Marmaris on the Turkish Riviera

Beaches of Marmaris on the Turkish Riviera (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A week or so ago, after my 14 hour work day, the puppets longed for sleep. On the way home in the car, they even began to fight for space on my head, where they like to hang upside-down like bats when they are ready to sleep for the night.

As I walked in the door, at least a few of them were dreaming of the warm, pine forest-laden hills and blue waters above Marmaris – and wishing for a warm sun instead of a chilly early fall evening with no stars in sight.

M. met us at the door. OK, he said, time to pack your passport and your bathing suit, we are going away to relax for the weekend. The chorus of little dancing ladies cried out “what an amazing guy!” And indeed, he is. But as the old blues song goes, “you shouldn’t advertise your man.” So, I won’t. Kenne, the manners puppet, clucks her approval at this, an example of ladylike behavior, as it is her job to maintain just this sort of behavior.

English: Turunc/Marmaris/Mugla/Turkey

Turunc/Marmaris/Mugla/Turkey (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Upon hearing “bathing suit” – the sleepy puppets sprang back to life, hoping that their dreams of Marmaris were coming true. Running around like a herd of fertile foxes, they began to pack as if there were no tomorrow, debating along the way about whether there are indeed Kervan Saray stops between New England and Turkey, perhaps in the Azores? Eventually, the morning broke, and after loading all of the puppets and their necessities into my carry-on backpack, M. and I commenced leaving separately with our knapsacks, in order to trick the beloved dog out of separation anxiety.

Boarding the bus for the airport, I invite you to just imagine the jingle jangle that accompanied us given all of the puppets’ çay gear, prayer paraphernalia, walking staffs, magic markers, dress-up outfits, Turkish food necessities and the like. That band of puppets, they travel heavy, let me tell you.

The chorus of little dancing ladies is still in shock that I only packed one medium-sized knapsack for the whole adventure. Kenne was not even polite in asking “and what, m’lady, will you do if you are not suitably attired for any possible occasion?” I just shrugged my shoulders and let her know that I didn’t care, but that I had packed a black sundress in case I needed to dress up. I had been up pretty late in the night, finishing a project for work, and I was in no mood to tangle with my own personal Ottoman era Miss Manners for the simultaneous modern and ancient ages right here in my head.

So, we beat a hasty and light retreat for the airport…and although we were, yet again, ethnically profiled in the airport, before long we were walking the gilded streets of the Miami airport – on our way to Tulum, Mexico.

To be continued…

Posted in Puppets on the move around the world, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Karagöz ignores the war drums, slinks back from Celtics-Fenerbahçe game


Celtics player Rajan Rondo accepts flowers from a Turkish fan in Istanbul – heart warming to me (eye rolling from Karagoz commences)

Karagöz has been absent over the past few days – that impish puppet man with the screeching voice and penchant for somersaults – he is just blocking out the drums of war that we are hearing from Erdoğan’s now-infamous peace via war comment.  As for Saf and Dobra’s revelation about the unexpectedly humane and thoughtful new police chief in Diyarbakır, Recep Güven, he just says “count the days until he is killed – or it is revealed that he is not for real.”

He is a pessimist as he knows that if he expects the worst, it will not be so bad, so painful, when the worst happens.  Esma, the hippie puppet tells him to have hope – and to trust in Mr. Güven’s inspired vision for forging a new understanding between Turks and Kurds in the Southeastern Region of Turkey.  But Karagöz is not listening to Esma – rather – he is bouncing a basketball on the living room wall again, and again………..and again at alternate interludes so that there is no rhythmic order.  It is driving me about as nuts as I would imagine the people in Akçakale in Şanlıurfa province must be feeling, waiting for the next mortar shell to drop, at any moment.

The Celtics in Istanbul to play Fenerbahce

And, you may ask, why a basketball? But you already know, as the title of the post gives it away! Yes, the New England team – the Boston Celtics – played the Fenerbahçe team in Istanbul this weekend.  And while this is a Galatasaray Blog, is it any surprise that our resident agent provocateur is a Fenerbahçe fan? Of course, for those of you not in the know, the two teams are dire enemies – and not even frenemies…

current logo 1996–present

Current Celtics logo 1996–present (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It is not often that the general populace around these parts – New England to be exact – have direct exposure to things Turkish – but they did this week when the Celtics played in Istanbul – although nobody really got the Fenerbahçe name quite right…you can catch a recap of the game here – the Celtics went home with their tails between their legs, as I hear tell from Sir Karagöz.  I don’t know the first thing about basketball – or most any sport – but my Turkish husband has been “all over it” since he moved to this country 20 years ago.  As I see it, he immediately transferred his male soccer love behavior for male baseball and basketball love behavior…just kept the Galatasaray “cim bom bom” cry going the whole time!

Despite this momentary distraction, I can still hear the drums of war, though, despite the basketball un-rhythmic efforts of Karagöz…what about you?

Galatasaray Flag

Galatasaray Flag (Photo credit: Cycling man)

P.S. I just told my husband that Karagöz has “come out” as a Fenerbahçe fan, and M. is really, really disappointed.  I think we are about to have a fight – even if the *rest* of the puppet troupe are staunch Galatasaray supporters.  “Why,” M. cries out, “why would Karagöz support those bribing, cheating bastards? Don’t make that post, it’s bad for humanity!”

Laughing in a spluttering fashion, I remind him that Galatasaray team managers, while not busted for bribing (thus far?) they did switch the jerseys of banned players – so the good players could play – and got busted for it.  In response, M. says “that was nothing, just a disappointment – I can’t believe you are posting this, terrible.”  I think he is serious.  And so it goes when one is married to a Turkish futbol fan.

Posted in Turkish Controversies, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Saf and Dobra rejoice at Recep Güven’s stunningly human commentary on the PKK in Diyarbakır


Photographs from Diyarbakir, Turkey

A door of opportunity and hope opens in Diyarbakir, Turkey in the form of the new police chief, Recep Güven (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Yesterday, the Saf and Dobra puppets were really feeling the weight of their love-hate relationship with Turkey – and the U.S. to boot. In fact, they were quite twisted up about it, mirroring, of course, my own beloved M.’s feelings.

Today, however, hope springs eternal in the form of an unexpectedly humane and thoughtful new police chief in Diyarbakır, Recep Güven.  In short, Mr. Güven has spoken out about the need to consider what are often referred to as “Kurdish guerillas” as human beings first – and has explained that he is in the process of learning to speak Kurdish to boot.

Mr. Recep Güven, the new police chief in Diyarbakir– a very brave and humanist person, it seems from his words. (Image from Milliyet.com)

To contextualize this, understand that the Kurdish minority in Turkey is considered by many to be oppressed (an understatement if you look at living conditions, work un-opportunity, cultural and language oppression, and on and on – the trusty Archers of Okçular will likely correct/add to me here).  The conflict between Turkish nationalists and Kurdish separatists is fierce in good times.  I would argue that M. and I are of a school of people in Turkey who support the cause of Kurdish human rights – and while we don’t condone violence – we can certainly understand why it comes to this.  It is a desperate situation, and has been for decades, and that is why Mr. Güven’s comments are so meaningful to us.

So, for those who read Turkish – you can check out an absolutely incredible interview here.  It almost had M. in tears it was such a shock.  Of course, we wonder to what extent this is a) a flash in the pan that will result in an “accident” (a.k.a. execution under a different name or b) propaganda – but it is pretty brave and pretty different from the normal super-incremental comments in support of small issues such as the right to learn the Kurdish language in school for children, etc…. If his comments are real and true, it seems to me a really different direction for the “moderate Islamist” ruling AK Partisi to take – and a brave one that we honor deeply.

In any case, M. has graciously translated a few key phrases from Mr. Güven’s press conference – they may not be perfect translations – but they get the point across.  Apologies to Mr. Güven if we in any way mis-interpreted his words, our effort was out of an interest to make sure this got into the English-language blogosphere.

On speaking about deaths that occur during Turkish-Kurdish conflicts: “If you are not crying for the person that you call the terrorist that has died in the mountains, you are not a human being.”

A patriotic phrase and image that is rather scary – but to me gets across the feeling I hear in many people’s voices when they utter this phrase. It is an ultra-nationalist phrase in my view. (Image from Kolayresim.com)

On the Turkish saying “Önce Vatan,” or “country first:”  “In Turkey, the first priority is Turkey, not the human being.  As it should be, the first thing should not be the country, the first priority is a human being’s life.  If you want to keep your country continuing, make sure your people live like human beings.”  (Note: M. adds that Mr. Güven is not the first to challenge the Önce Vatan Turkish worldview – rather – it was a mother who lost her son during his military duty.  The phrase “Önce Vatan” can be seen and heard all over Turkey – and I have seen the words carved into the greenery of ornamental hillsides in Southern Turkey, in honor of soldiers who have died.)

On a human relationship-building campaign:  “I want to make a five person team who will go to the mountains (Note: where rural Kurds live, presumably) and knock on people’s doors and communicate with them.  When I said this, people’s response was, ‘they are going to kill you,’ and I said ‘we are breaking the people’s door and getting their house, they don’t kill us.  Now we are going to knock their door, do you think they are going to kill us?'”

On taking a different approach to Turkish-Kurdish relations after decades of violence: “I wish we couldn’t be too late like this.  I wish we could have reached the people before giving this pain to them.  I wish we could share their problems and try to help them.  Because we didn’t do this, now we are in this situation.”

On the roots of the Kurdish independence movement – and his approach: “In the past when I was in the police intelligence service, I read a bunch of reports, and for example, I read one in which a Kurdish kid who was twelve said ‘I want to contribute to our independence war.  My father doesn’t have work, he is beating my mother, the social environment is horrible and I can’t go to school and so I have to join this war.’  What we can understand from this report is, this kid is running away from difficult situation to try to find a way to make his life better.  That means there is a problem in the society if we can’t put this on the table, if we can’t acknowledge what it is, if we cannot talk, how we can solve the problem?”

Old city walls - Diyarbakir

Old city walls – Diyarbakir (Photo credit: deemikay)

For those of you who are not aware, this press conference took place in Diyarbakır, which is a city in South Eastern Turkey, in which many Kurdish people live – and in which the Kurdistan People’s Party (PKK) is very strong and active.  It is also the area of Turkey in which there are often violent conflicts between the Turkish military and the PKK “guerrillas” – a term I reject but use here as you will recognize.  Some might say they are “freedom fighters,” so I am giving equal access quotation marks to both.  I have really wanted to visit Diyarbakır for all of its ancient, walled-city beauty, but what I think is a nod to my protective Father, M. refuses to plan for a trip there for fear of my safety.  Maybe once we are true grey-haired trekkers, it would be easier? I don’t know.

For now, Saf, Dobra and the other puppets are happy to feel the sunshine on their faces in the form of this surprisingly refreshing commentary.  We will watch Mr. Güven with great interest and hope.  And perhaps a prayer or two.

Posted in Cross-cultural learning moments, Turkish Controversies, Visits from the Karagöz puppets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments